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Summer Solstice in Iceland
By Octavia Randolph, 2002
Photographs by Jonathan Gilman
Þingvellir - the
parliament plain where continents collide – Monday 24 June
I rented a car and drove us out to the most important
historic site in Iceland. The AlÞingi or Althing, the Icelandic parliament
begun in 930, met at this stunning natural amphitheatre, formed at the
meeting point of the North American and European/Asian tectonic plates.
The Summer AlÞingi was a two week gathering at the time of the Solstice.
At it all law cases were heard and decided upon by a Law Speaker, a man
charged to learn and recite all the laws. He recited one third of them
each year, and used his knowledge to judge the innumerable disputes brought
before him. Not that his word was Law in all instances; there was plenty
of bloodshed at the Þingvellir as well. But generally Icelanders,
having early decided they would have no king (they escaped Norway to get
away from one) and wishing have the Law above all men, were successful
in creating an early republic.
It was at Þingvellir in the year 999 or 1000 that
the Law Speaker Þorgeir Ljósvetningagoði decreed, after
arising from a trance state, that Iceland should accept Christianity and
forsake the Old Gods. (It must be understood that this was a decision not
made without duress. The King of Norway, Olafr Tryggvason, a violently
zealous convert, was threatening to murder or mutilate a large number of
young Icelandic men held as hostages in Norway if the country refused to
convert.) The decision to accept Christianity was made by Þorgeir
and accepted by the massed attendants. Two exceptions to the general Christian
rule were allowed, however: Icelanders could continue to eat horsemeat,
and continue to practice infant exposure. Both of these practices can be
traced to the hardships of survival, and the eating of horsemeat might
also relate to the worship of the mighty fertility God Freyr who had many
ardent followers in Iceland and who was closely associated with horses.
Click image to enlarge: Þingvellir. This site apart
from its intrinsic historic interest is also astonishing geographically,
as it sits directly upon the rift caused by the tectonic plates of the
North American and European/Asian continents. It is dramatic in the extreme,
with towering crags, waterfalls, and near perfect acoustics. And one walks
on a wooden boardwalk in a literal "no man's land" between the two continents.
The Icelandic flag marks the approximate location of the Lögberg,
"Law Rock" where the Law Speaker stood to address the assembled throngs.
All free men were welcome to listen or to make comments, but only the 36
(later increased to 39) goðar, chieftains, could vote. Finally,
heading southeast on Rte 35, two views of the extinct Kerið volcano
crater. The rainwater within the caldera is the same vivid ice blue as
is found in many Icelandic rivers and streams. The singer Björk
once staged a concert from a raft in the middle of the crater lake. |