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Summer Solstice in Iceland
By Octavia Randolph, 2002
Photographs by Jonathan Gilman
The Saga of Gudridur
– Friday June 21st
A perfect introduction to Icelandic history was the dramatic
one woman play The Saga of Gudridur, which we saw the evening of
the day we arrived. Written and directed by Brynja Benediksdóttir
and performed by talented actress Þorun Erna Clausen, this fast moving
and engrossing production tells the story of a historical Icelandic woman,
Gudridur Thorbjarnardóttir. Gudridur, a newly converted Christian,
was one of the earliest settlers of North America and by tradition bore
the first European child, a son, Snorri, in the New World, about the year
1005. Based on the Saga of Eirik the Red and the Greenlander's
Saga, the play depicts her travels from Iceland and Greenland, the
various struggles against hard Winters, treacherous seas, personal misfortunes
(Gudridur weds three times in the first few years of her womanhood; she
is widowed twice due to illness) and finally the violent indigenous peoples
of Vinland ("land of the vines"- likely Newfoundland) that the Icelandic
settlers seeking new lands to the West faced. Gudridur's second husband
is no less a personage than Thorsteinn, the brother of Leifur Eiriksson,
the Lucky. Although Vinland was not perhaps the mild fruitful land of her
dreams the small settlement recently unearthed at L'Anse aux Meadows may
have thrived and grown if the native population, who the Greenlanders named
skraelings,
had not proved too violent for the settlers. (Gudridur and her small party
may have settled even further South, possibly along the coast of New York
State, but the indigenous peoples again proved unfriendly.) History does
not often record that a Viking people sought peace from a neighbour and
were themselves driven off, but that is what happened in the New World.
Gudridur returned to Iceland with her third husband, in old age became
a respected nun, and true to her adventuresome spirit, even undertook and
completed a pilgrimage to Rome for Papal blessing.
This acclaimed presentation, in English, required minimal
props and scenery and was enhanced with dramatic sound effects at a small
theatre, the Skemmtihusid, in downtown Reykjavik. It perfectly conveyed
an era of rapid change and discovery – Christianity had been adopted en
masse and under threat of force in Iceland in the year 1000, and Gudridur
is as ardent a convert as her friends and relations are heathen. One scene
which was particularly memorable is taken from the
Saga of Eirik the
Red and concerns Gudridur being impressed into the service of a völva
or seeress. The völva needs to enter her soothsaying trance
to the accompaniment of certain ritualistic traditional chants called varðlokkur,
"ward chants", and only Gudridur, a Christian now forbidden to sing these
songs, knows them. The
varðlokkur were sung to attract spirits
to the seeress so she could transmit their wisdom. For the survival of
her starving village Gudridur sings "so well and beautifully that people
there said they had never hear anyone recite in a fairer voice" according
to Eirik's Saga, and the völva delivers her message.
Click image to enlarge: Leaving the performance we walked
up the hill to Hallgrímskirkja, the impressive concrete cathedral
which dominates the Reykjavik skyline. The statue of Leifur Eiriksson
is the work of the American sculptor Stirling Calder, Alexander Calder's
father. Note the brilliant sun showing clock hands at 11- at night! |